Originally Posted by roylovelock

How to change the 1.6 Timing belt

If your not mechanically minded DONT even attempt to do this job. Its not for the every day diy mechanic - you will need to know how the engines work (even I had some issues but i will go into them later).
Tools Needed.
Special first...
1. Correct Cam Locking tool (essential) - cost me £150 (made by sealey)
2. Crank Locking tool - £20 - this is also made by sealey, but the one they recomend wouldnt fit until i took an angle grinder to it. - this job would have been impossible without this tool

Hi Roy, great interesting guide. I did my 1.8 last year and your quote "If your not mechanically minded DONT even attempt to do this job. Its not for the every day diy mechanic" is spot on, it was real b*tch of a job to do.

However, and please note, certainly not to 'pee on your chips', may I add a few memories from doing my 1.8 (maybe slight differences to the 1.6), which could help anyone rash enough to want to do theirs.

Firstly I didn't use any cam locks or even touch the top of the engine at all, As the cam locks perform two functions (1) to keep the timing alignment with no belt, and (2) to stop the cams turning against valve spring pressure . I got around this by simply marking the cam wheels with a centre punch against existing marks on the inner cam case for one cam, and making a new marks for the other cam. From memory there was already a mark on the crank (maybe I used the keyway) which aligned with a commensurate existing 'feature' on the case. To turn the cams I just used spanners on the cam nuts.
Secondly, I don't think I had to remove the crankshaft pulley(s). I seem to remember that the pulley wheels seperated from the cranshft 'nut', and that with the pulleys off, I could access the drive gear teeth on the crankshaft (although maybe that's a 1.8 difference?). Anyway, I certainly didn't use (don't have) a cranshaft lock.
Thirdly, that the setting of the timing belt tension was the most challenging part of the job (your 1.6 picture looks similar but different to the 1.8) and I remember managing to set the tensioning pulley into correct tension by levering on a long screwdriver which was pulling some 200lb fishing line tied to the pully. OK 'somewhat heath robinson' but it worked.
Lastly as my engine was 5 years old, but had only 38,000 on it, I only changed the belt itself which (an Alfa part) off of ebay was about £20. In fact that was actually all I spent on the whole job (+ about 5 hours work).

Over a year later it's still running fine, so I don't think there was much wrong with the water pump, variator, or belt pulleys (or my spannering).

Certainly if I was paying for someone to do the job then having the other parts renewed at the same time would be good sense. However if you are mad enough to 'diy' then follow the engineers motto 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it'.

Anyway, a truly excellant guide from you which took patience to compile, as I know that when your in the heat of things, the last thing you want/remember to do is to stop and take pictures.

Ciao

PP