Originally Posted by PNL

hang on I'm a farther and grandfarther so shouldnt that be further rather than farther..lol

Its the way I say it lol

By the way has farther and grand farther got a silent h

A quick english lesson for you Phil

Farther denotes physical advancement in distance.
Further denotes advancement to a greater degree as in time.

Just incase you hadnt noticed you are a Father and Grandfather.

You have just been Philled lol

Just as a quick query based on what I'd asked Phil before a few posts were accidentally misplaced ( ) -

See if I were to just have the cone on the original intake just past the breather pipe (like suggested), do you's reckon enough cold air would get to it from the original gap in the bumper - basically the one where the cold air was sourced for the OEM airbox/filter? Just wanting to ask this in case anyone thinks I need a cold air feed if it's positioned like that as in that scenario, I'd need to get a JTD vent or cut holes in my own vent.

I personally wouldn't put the filter that near the T/B ..take it under the battery tray ..different lengths can affect the rev range and you might even lose some performance and torque when fitting a short ram kit over a longer pipe ..

YouTube - AEM Intake System Features


YouTube - AEM Intake Systems how they are designed and work

Its very much trial and error in your case muppet..

Originally Posted by PNL

I personally wouldn't put the filter that near the T/B ..take it under the battery tray ..different lengths can affect the rev range and you might even lose some performance and torque when fitting a short ram kit over a longer pipe ..

YouTube - AEM Intake System Features


YouTube - AEM Intake Systems how they are designed and work

Its very much trial and error in your case muppet..

Hmm, so that'd be the reason for using the original cut off bit of pipe - to maintain the length from filter to the throttle body.

If I can get a small length of piping to lengthen the distance from the cone filter to the throttle body (which incidentally would make it closer to the gap where the original cold air feed was), this should make it pretty close to the original length and maybe negate any issues. Perhaps.

Just thinking with putting it under the battery tray, it makes it harder to channel cold air to the filter OR does the filter being further away from the main source of heat ie the engine, end up meaning that a cold air feed isn't required as much like with Red's or indeed a GSR kit?

Cheers for the help by the way, if I didn't get advice from people like yourself I'd end up simply supplying my engine with the air heater that is a 57i

Originally Posted by muppet42

Hmm, so that'd be the reason for using the original cut off bit of pipe - to maintain the length from filter to the throttle body.

If I can get a small length of piping to lengthen the distance from the cone filter to the throttle body (which incidentally would make it closer to the gap where the original cold air feed was), this should make it pretty close to the original length and maybe negate any issues. Perhaps.

Just thinking with putting it under the battery tray, it makes it harder to channel cold air to the filter OR does the filter being further away from the main source of heat ie the engine, end up meaning that a cold air feed isn't required as much like with Red's or indeed a GSR kit?

Cheers for the help by the way, if I didn't get advice from people like yourself I'd end up simply supplying my engine with the air heater that is a 57i

Sticking the filter under the battery tray should give you all the cold air you will need for a test on this try fixing a thermometer in the engine bay go for a run and check the temp.. then relocate the thermometer under the battery tray where the filter will be and do the run again..I bet I can guess which one will record the lower temp..
One of the biggest issues I found with [the one we mustn't mention] is he always said he had to calculate tube length and diameters to get optimum bhp and torque but having seen how he actually built them became a bit of a wake up call for me when I saw that he in many cases used the same diameters for 99% of the kits built because of the availability of pipe to make tooling's and then when he said there is a calculated length and do the maths I basically found that also to be in many cases a false quote because the hoses can only take a predetermine route due to engines and location of ansileries [sp] alternaters /hoses and the like..this was very much a case of we will go to here then take a turn here and end up here going to this size to take the filter..in many cases I thought more a pot luck than actually doing the maths..in your case its more for sound than anything else from what you have told us but as I said there can be issuse with performance loss if you get tube length wrong just like an exhaust system if you over do the pipe dia with a cat back..for this i would suggest you get yourself a spare induction tube for you 1.2 in case you do wish to put it back to standard..

Originally Posted by PNL

Sticking the filter under the battery tray should give you all the cold air you will need for a test on this try fixing a thermometer in the engine bay go for a run and check the temp.. then relocate the thermometer under the battery tray where the filter will be and do the run again..I bet I can guess which one will record the lower temp..
One of the biggest issues I found with [the one we mustn't mention] is he always said he had to calculate tube length and diameters to get optimum bhp and torque but having seen how he actually built them became a bit of a wake up call for me when I saw that he in many cases used the same diameters for 99% of the kits built because of the availability of pipe to make tooling's and then when he said there is a calculated length and do the maths I basically found that also to be in many cases a false quote because the hoses can only take a predetermine route due to engines and location of ansileries [sp] alternaters /hoses and the like..this was very much a case of we will go to here then take a turn here and end up here going to this size to take the filter..in many cases I thought more a pot luck than actually doing the maths..in your case its more for sound than anything else from what you have told us but as I said there can be issuse with performance loss if you get tube length wrong just like an exhaust system if you over do the pipe dia with a cat back..for this i would suggest you get yourself a spare induction tube for you 1.2 in case you do wish to put it back to standard..

That's the impression I was getting in terms of the temperature distribution in the engine bay. There's a few pipes and the like going to the rad in that area so can't easily go too low unless I route a long(ish) pipe between them BUT I reckon I can get a 45 degree, 150mm length of pipe and have that attached to the original intake an inch or so after the crank breather pipe. That should technically provide the necessary length I reckon to negate any performance issues. The cone itself in that scenario will sit perhaps a half inch to an inch away from the original gap in the bumper as I mentioned.

In terms of the pipe itself - I think I'd really need to go with a 76mm diameter one anyway as all the reducers I seem to find are from one size to that and connecting rubber/plastic to alloy is perhaps iffy with anything but one of those reducers. One of which will come with the filter if memory serves. Then that can simply connect to the cone filter...job done.

I am (obviously) interested in getting a nice sound - hence the use of a twin cone filter, but I don't obviously want to cause issues with performance as a result. If anything, I wouldn't mind a very slight gain in torque or similar but I won't build my hopes up. The exhaust has certainly helped matters though I know a cat-back system can only do so much - with a 1.2 I just have to be realistic, I'll never be seeing sub 10 seconds to 60 or a decent 1/4 mile. That'll come with my next car

In terms of the original intake pipe, I've looked every now and again and haven't found any. I won't be getting rid till probably March next year when the finance is paid, so in the meantime I can have a look around for replacement pipe after chopping the original. I think the 1.4 16v engine uses pretty much the same pipe work as the 1.2, so that allows for the GP and probably Panda to be considered at the scrappies in the search for it

There's a K&N system for the 1.2 uber cheap on ebay

There's at least one 1.2 Stilo being broken locally to me

Thanks Hamish ..Oi Muppet a post from a fellow countyman here..well just above me..

As I said to Hamish - I ended up ordering some bits the other day from Regal. Came to around £50 so cheaper than most induction kits and may get a better result than the 57i BUT may well still bid as the cost is worth it for the bits you get and the cold air feed could come in handy

Cheers again for the help guys, really appreciate it. Shall obviously post the results up as soon as I have the ability to fit the bits under the bonnet without getting frostbite

EDIT: Just found the re-listed item...went for £40 incl postage - oh well.